Stroll and a Spa

Combine a stroll and a spa on Durham’s diverse coastline with a stay at luxury manor house Seaham Hall. The five-star hotel makes the perfect base to enjoy the uplifting Durham Heritage Coast, and you can rest your tired feet in the Serenity Spa afterwards. From the hotel, wander onto the England Coast Path, where you’ll find wild cliffs, dramatic dunes and unique seaside villages. The 11-mile stretch is flexible, so you can meander into fascinating areas along the route. Enjoy stunning coastal views at Nose’s Point, find colourful sea glass on the walk from Glass Beach to Seaham Beach (just five-minutes away) or take a walk through the old mining village of Souter, exploring its lighthouse and nature reserve. An overnight B&B stay costs from £158 pp (total £315 for two sharing a junior suite), including full spa access.

Coast, Countryside, Woodland and Villages

A five-mile walk around Portishead will take in coast, countryside, woodland and villages. The figure-of-eight trip from Portishead to Clevedon Pier – essentially Bristol-on-Sea, both being so close to the city – is a brisk five-mile walk, easily accomplished taking in Mariners Path, Sugar Loaf Beach, Charlcombe Bay, Pigeon House Bay, Blackhill Sands and finally Clevedon with its remarkable Victorian pier.

Stay at The Udder Barn (sleeps six), a contemporary five-star barn conversion within beautiful parkland, just six miles from Bristol. Approached via a grand estate drive, its impressive open-plan living space is heavenly after a day’s exhilarating walking. A three-night stay in May costs from £108 pp (£647 total) with www.holidaycottages.co.uk.

Constable Country for the Art Loving Dog Lover

If you’re searching for the best walks in Suffolk with a view, look no further than this trail through the awe-inspiring landscape of the Stour Valley and Dedham Vale which inspired many of John Constable’s famous paintings. The walk takes in landmarks such as Flatford Mill, Willy Lott’s House and the site of The Hay Wain painting, so there’s plenty to admire en route.

Stay at Clocktower Stables 1 (sleeps two, plus one dog), a beautifully converted former stable block in a studio-style layout. A three-night stay in May through canine cottages costs from £165 pp (£330 total). £20 supplement for a dog.

Moorland, Ruins and a Jurassic Coastline

Spectacular moorland, ancient ruins and a stunning Jurassic Age coastline, the North York Moors and Yorkshire Coast have hidden gems at every turn. Keep the coast in sight for your entire hike as you walk from Scarborough to Whitby, a 21-mile trail known locally as the Cinder Track taking in the route of the old railway line between the two resorts and passing through a series of historic railway stations and beautiful fishing villages including Robin Hood’s Bay.

Stay in the heart of the national park at the Grove House Moorland Holiday Cottages near Levisham. These cosy stone cottages sleep two (plus one young child and one dog), and boast a private terrace, BBQ and shared garden overlooking the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. A four-night stay costs from £360 (£180 pp). Plan your itinerary with coastal booking tool (www.englandscoast.com/en).

Learn More with an Expert Guide

If you enjoy exploring the UK’s cities, towns and rural regions on foot but don’t have the time to plan your route or research what to see when you get there, why not enlist the services of a professional guide? Now back in business for outdoor tours (within legal gathering limits) following the easing of lockdown, Blue Badge Tourist Guides are guaranteed to bring your chosen experience to life and offer an array of options on foot, including private walking tours that can be tailor-made to your personal interests. The Institute of Tourist Guiding, the professional body for tourist guides, is committed to developing, maintaining and promoting professional standards in tourist guiding. To find a professional guide, visit the British Guild of Tourist Guides.

Enjoy Energetic Hikes on a Peak District Road Trip

Boasting some of the UK’s most beautiful landscapes, the Peak District National Park is a walker’s paradise, with hugely varied terrain across rugged limestone valleys, moors, dales, rivers, lakes and caverns. The best-known trail is to Kinder Scout, the highest point in the Peaks, but there are walks aplenty, from the relaxing strolls such as Dovedale or Tissington, to more energetic hikes such as Win Hill. Base yourself in a comfortable motorhome, ideal for exploring the area.

Ian’s Converted Van is a four-berth vehicle based in Southwell, with all mod-cons – loo, shower, wash basin, hob, grill, oven, dining area and sofas. In May, the price is from £399 for four days’ hire including one insured driver, breakdown cover, mileage (100 km per day) and a flexible cancellation policy up to 48 hours in advance.

The Wild and Wonderful Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Spanning 186 miles of epic coastline, the breathtaking Pembrokeshire Coast Path runs from St Dogmaels in the north to Amroth in the south, boasting steep limestone cliffs, undulating red sandstone bays, volcanic headlands, glacial valleys and stunning beaches. The first National Trail in Wales (it opened in 1970), it passes 58 beaches and 14 harbours, and the path’s total rise and fall is approx. 35,000 km feet – as high as Everest!

The Pembrokeshire coastal bus service covers the entire path, so it’s easy to break down into manageable chunks and take the bus for sections. Base yourself at the Celtic Camping and Bunkhouses in Berea, St Davids, a stone’s throw from the Coast Path, with glorious views across the open sea. Tent pitches from £12 pp per night (£6 for children 5-15 years) during May and June.

Ideas for a perfect foodie break on England’s Seafood Coast

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Learn to Cook Balinese-Style

If you enjoy sampling different cuisines, no doubt you’ve tasted authentic Indonesian foods like satay, betutu and urab. Nothing beats savouring these flavours in their home surroundings. But learning the skills to recreate the dishes at home is one of the best gifts you can share on your return.

There are plenty of traditional cooking classes you can take on the island, where you’ll learn to cook an array of delicious dishes, Balinese-style.

Do Some Volunteering Work

One way to soak up Bali’s culture and the atmosphere is to engage in some volunteer work on the island. Each year, thousands of Brits travel to Bali to donate their time and skills to improve others’ lives.

You could get involved with a conservation project, for example, or offer English language tuition. Contacting the top volunteer organisations in Bali will give you an idea of the different projects available. Plus, as well as a memorable experience by working alongside others you’ll likely make plenty of amazing new friends for life!

Watch a Gamelan Show

Gamelan is a type of traditional Balinese music orchestra that plays an integral role in Bali’s culture and history. Gamelan music typically accompanies religious ceremonies and rituals, dancing, festivals, and traditional theatre.

You won’t find it hard to come across a gamelan show as music is at the heart of Balinese life and found in virtually all villages. These percussion orchestras are an integral part of daily life and their sounds are a great way to immerse yourself in the local atmosphere.

Take Part in Mepantigan Mud Games

Think martial arts in the mud? Mepantigan is a form of Balinese martial arts – with an emphasis on fun by extending the self-defence tradition to include elements of Balinese dance and Gamelan music, fusing fighting with performing arts to create a new cultural experience.

Mepantigan activities include mud wrestling, playing tug-of-war, dancing, and much more. Don’t worry because you’ll have the chance to shower afterwards!

Visit Ancient Temples
Lastly, if you’ve done some research on Bali, you’ve probably discovered that temples are virtually everywhere on the island. Balinese temples are beautiful, inspirational and spiritual places that are both vibrant and emit a strong sense of community.

Bali’s ancient temples play an integral role in the island’s culture, and locals are happy for visitors to share in the experience with them. These five cultural ideas for Bali will make your holiday the trip of a lifetime!

Feature image by Martin Fuhrmann on Pixabay

Lisbon luxury and howling moonlight at a wolf sanctuary

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During these uncertain times, a trip to Lisbon between Lockdowns was a dream come true. In recent years Lisbon has been climbing up the charts of weekend break destinations, this most westerly capital in Mainland Europe has all the right ingredients and not just for those lovers of the famed Pastel de Nata, that well-loved ‘Portuguese Tart.’

We are fortunate to have family living in Lisbon, so, for our recent sojourn we were able to join them and visit some of the marvellous places that await travellers who are prepared to travel a little further out of the capital city. There many fascinating areas around the Lisbon region tucked away from the immediate charms of one of Europe’s oldest capital cities.

There are a variety of these exciting municipalities and towns to visit, just an hour or so from Lisbon and I would say they all deserve at least a one night stay. When we have visited more of them, I will report back as we are compiling are wish list to add to our already visited; Sintra, Nazaré on Portugal’s Silver Coast, Obidos, Cascais ….more about all these in a future article.

On arrival in Lisbon, we took advantage of the pre-Christmas low occupancy rates and decided to stay a single night in some 4 star and 5 star hotels across the city and it was evident, as soon as we were welcomed at the entrance, that the Hotel Britania would win our ‘Carter Best Hotel’ vote and we were correct to have thought this!

Located in the heart of Lisbon, Hotel Britania , known then as Hotel do Imperio, opened its doors during the World War II , when Portugal was a neutral country, the clients at the time were primarily foreign diplomats and high society and politicians. From the outset it rapidly became the symbol for modern style, with five floors of Art Deco loveliness. Each suite held a hall complete with chandelier , small lounge, bedroom and ensuite bathroom and other additions which were completely unheard of in hotels in Portugal at that time, namely a telephone, typewriter and radio set. There still stands the original barbers shop on the lower floor, although no longer in use, it is fully intact and one of the lovely staff will happily unlock the door for you to be able to step back in time for a moment.

The hotel was the place for lavish parties, dancing, eccentricities, perhaps conspiracies and a little scandal. War documentaries were seen by customers, while dancing or playing clandestine roulette until dawn! High profile Bridge championships were held there, and I am told film star Omar Sheriff played bridge there when in town. The high life for me was partaking of the refreshments and pastries offered anytime during the day.

For my husband, Bob, he enjoyed the same repast, but with the addition of the complimentary Ginjinha. This Portuguese liqueur is made by infusing ginja berries (sour cherry – Prunus cerasus austera and the Morello cherry, steeped in aguardente- a form of brandy and adding sugar together with other ingredients such as cloves and/or cinnamon sticks.

For three decades the hotel remained practically unaltered however, when its name changed to Hotel Britannia in the 70’s , so did the hotels persona, the hotel became modernised and many of its fabulous original features hidden from view. Thankfully, in the 1990’s work began to restore this lovely Art Deco building and once again the hotel could show case the opulence of a bygone era.

Our suite was on the fifth floor and this is the first hotel in the world I declared I could actually live in! Sadly, that can’t be, but we will definitely be back.

Before leaving Lisbon for its environs, we had two stops left. Our first, aptly as it was Christmas Eve, was visit the Christo Rei (Christ The King Statue), the statue is 92 feet high and stands on a pedestal of 270 feet, it overlooks the south side of the Tejo river estuary and is an important site of pilgrimage for many people.

There is a lift to a viewing platform, but we didn’t venture up there. The statue, inspired by the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro, was inaugurated in 1959 in thanks for Portugal’s escape from involvement in Word War II. We had been told that this statue is the only reason tourists have to cross the 25th of April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril in Portuguese) the longest suspension bridge in Europe with its two levels, the top level is for cars and the lower, which was added in 1999 is for trains.

We disagreed that the statue was the only reason to cross the bridge, while our visit to the statue was definitely the highlight of our day, we were also pleasantly surprised to find less publicised towns around, such as Cacilhas, you can catch the ferry to this little port from the City of Lisbon and visit a whole host of fish restaurants. We have made a mental note to explore further on our next visit.

Our second ‘pilgrimage’ was to Belém , to visit Casa Pastéis de Belém the original home of the Pastel de Nata. There are many blogs written on the search and findings of THE best Patel de Nata, at present, that title is bestowed by me, on a market café in Alges, just outside of the City of Lisbon. Special recognition and respect must always be given to the Pastel de Natas from Casa Pastéis de Belém because, where would be without the fabled unnamed person who, centuries ago, offered sweet pastries for sale to the shop in Belem?

At the beginning of the 19th Century, there was a sugar cane refinery attached to a small general store in Belém, next to Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (the Heironymite Monastery) As a result of the 1820 liberal revolution by 1834 , all convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down , the clergy and labourers expelled.

In an attempt at survival, an unnamed person from the Monastery offered sweet pastries for sale to the general store; pastries that would rapidly become known as ‘Pastéis de Belém’. In 1837, the baking of the “Pastéis de Belém” began in earnest , in the buildings attached to the refinery, following the ancient ‘secret recipe’ from the Monastery.
At that time the area of Belém was considered far from the City of Lisbon, and mainly accessed by steam-boats.

As the grandeur of the Monastery and the Torre de Belém (the Belém Tower) more and more visitors were attracted to the area and a stop for a ‘Pastéis de Belém’ soon gained popularity. Passed on and known exclusively to the master confectioners who hand-crafted the pastries in the ‘secret room’, this recipe remains unchanged to the present day and for this reason I feel a visit must always be made by me!

Following our Christmas festivities with our family, we were delighted to learn that there was a very special experience planned for us for Boxing Day. Portugal does not celebrate Boxing Day, so instead of the usual curried turkey or nut roast we were off to a wolf sanctuary.

The Iberian Wolf Recovery Centre (CRLI) was created in 1985 by a group of people ‘Grupo Lobo’ , who were concerned about the situation of the wolf population in Portugal. Their aim continues to be to provide an environment, in captivity, suitable for wolves that cannot live in freedom. These animals have been victims of traps, of illegal captivity, from other parks and zoological gardens, as well as others that were born in the Centre. There are around 12 wolves at the Centre. This mix of wolves preserves the genetic diversity of the Iberian wolf.

The Sanctuary occupies 18 hectares of land, in a wooded and isolated valley. It is located in the parish of Gradil, in the municipality of Mafra, about 30 km north of Lisbon, so around an hour’s drive away. The nearest villages (about 1.5 km away) are Picão and Vale Guarda.

The welfare of wolves is obviously one of the main concerns, so the Centre’s activities are based on a philosophy of a sanctuary, giving animals conditions similar to those of their habitat and reducing human interference and disturbance, so this is not a Centre where you go and pet wolves or take them for a nice walk on a lead.

This is not to say that a visit is not thrilling, because it is, visitors are not even guaranteed a wolf sighting, but they are guaranteed that by visiting the Centre that they are contributing to ecological and socio-economic conditions that are essential for the effective conservation of the national wolf population. As wolves live in packs, they are incredibly territorial, so there are five or six different enclosures each designed to be as close to their natural habitat as possible with minimal contact with humans.

The story of ‘Little Red Riding Hood’ is one most people have heard of and the Grupo Lobo are keen to provide the correct information about the wolf, a predator unknown to most people, and one which has always been associated with something demonic. It is, however, the wolves who are subject to many dangers and the Grupo Lobo are keen to impart the importance of the conservation of the wolf population. Sadly, there can be no release programme for the 12 wolves at the Centre due to human’s past cruelty of them.

As wolves are nocturnal animals the visits take place in late afternoon. The walks are led by a volunteer and we met Ana who was to be our knowledgeable guide. Even in the balmy days of a Portuguese December, the nights are chilly, and we were glad we had worn our warm clothes and boots as the paths are uneven and the only lighting is from the moon. The walk along the perimeter of the enclosures lasts between an hour and a half to two hours.

As we peeked into the first enclosure, we saw nothing at first, even though we were well behaved and stayed quiet, as instructed. As we walked past an enclosure, we heard a tree branch break, and we were rewarded by our first view of a wolf. Once our eyes became accustomed to distinguishing him between the foliage, we were able to quietly acknowledge him and in return he stood squarely watching us, I wondered what he was thinking as he saw these humans, smiling and clicking away with their phones. He gave us a little show of picking up a stick in his mouth and walking with us for a while, perhaps he was one of the wolves more used to humans and had been rescued from a zoo or perhaps he just liked us!

We continued with our walk, and listened intently, as Ana told us more about the wolves and how even the names they have been given are names of trees and rivers. When we reached a look out point, a wooden structure which looked like a tree house, the more agile in our party climbed up and were able to locate and point out wolves on far away hills. Each sighting produced a spark of excitement within us all.

In all we were fortunate to have spied four or five wolves. Ania led us back to the assembly point where there is a shop and a loo.

As would be expected there are wolf related items to purchase but all are thoughtful and in keeping with ecological conservation. You can also sign up to adopt a wolf for around 35 Euros per year.

As we made our way back to our car, the wolves began to howl, a hauntingly beautiful sound on a moonlit Boxing Day.

Rediscovering the golden age of travel on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

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In 1086, the land on which Fleetwood now stands was deemed in the Doomsday Book as part of the ‘Amounderness Hundred’, one of the six subdivisions of Lancashire.

During the reign of Henry VIII, a manor house situated at present-day Rossall, in the southwest of the town, was in the possession of the Allen family, but not for long. The Allens were prominent Roman Catholics, and Henry VIII repossessed the land. It was ultimately sold to Thomas Fleetwood, a senior finance executive of the Royal Mint,  and the land would remain in the family  for 300 years. Thomas’ son Edmund expanded the manor into Rossall Hall and many decades later this was to become Rossall School which still exists today.

By the 1830s, the house and estate were in the ownership of Edmund’s descendant, Peter Hesketh, MP of Preston and High Sheriff of Lancashire. Hesketh an entrepreneur,  he believed that the sheltered harbour and views over Morecambe Bay gave the area the makings of a busy seaport and popular resort for the less affluent.

At the time there were no rail links between London and Scotland, so, he set about encouraging a railway link from Preston. With a new career in Parliament to prepare for, he engaged Frederick Kemp as his agent – this appears to have been the beginning of his downfall. Hesketh originally considered naming the new town Wyreton or New Liverpool,  but when he was later knighted, he petitioned Queen Victoria to add his mother’s maiden name ‘Fleetwood’ to his own name.  Well who wouldn’t want a town named after them?

The railway initiative alone was a momentous task to take on, and  inevitable delays ensued. He also recruited the prominent architect, Decimus Burton (now that would make a great name for a town) to lay out what would be the first planned town of  the Victorian era. The construction of the first buildings and the railway line began in 1836.

By 1838, Hesketh-Fleetwood had run into serious financial difficulties, with costs for the railway in particular ultimately exceeding £300,000. He had numerous financial arguments with Frederick Kemp. Depressed, he gradually withdrew from the project, and by 1844 he had been obliged to sell much of his estate. In 1847 virtually bankrupt, Hesketh-Fleetwood retired to Brighton, giving up his parliamentary obligations. Meanwhile, Kemp’s influence expanded.

The single railway line from Preston to Fleetwood opened on 15 July 1840, following the formation of the Preston and Wyre Railway, Harbour and Dock Company.

The North Euston Hotel, still considered Fleetwood’s crown jewel by many, is a fine semi-circular building now providing 53 on suite bedrooms. On opening in 1841 it provided the perfect venue to serve overnight guests making the railway journey from Euston Station in London.  At the time, there was no direct rail route from London to Scotland along the west coast, the point of departure for the steamers to Scotland was close to the hotel. Travellers would arrive at Fleetwood and take the sea ferry to Ardrossan, then travel by rail to Glasgow. Breakfast at the North Euston was two shillings, a bedroom four shillings a day.

Wealthy visitors stayed in this hotel and surrounding  fashionable area for three weeks to three months. During Whitsuntide Week of 1844 thousands of trippers travelled to Fleetwood on the half fares offered by the railway company. In 1846 the largest Sunday School trip was a train of 56 carriages, pulled by two engines, carrying 4,200 people.

In the 1890s, the construction and expansion of rival cargo ports and the building of the Manchester Ship Canal heralded the decline of Fleetwood’s prominence as a cargo port. But this was more than offset by a period of rapid expansion of the fishing industry and  Fleetwood’s position as one of the three major fishing ports in England was cemented.

Fleetwood Pier, the last seaside pier to be built in the UK, opened in 1910. After withstanding a fire in 1952, sadly a fire in September 2008 led to its demolition later in the same month.

The first fully automated telephone exchange in Britain was put into operation to serve the town on 15 July 1922!

The 1920s, the fishing industry was at its height, employing over 9,000 people. Over the next few years, the sea front along the north shore was developed in resort fashion, to encourage visitors for whom the brashness of Blackpool was too daunting.

Fleetwood boasts three lighthouses, one now in disrepair. In their heyday, they safely guided  thousands of ships through the Wyre channel and into port. These bastions of the sea were unable to assist the town when it was hit by a huge flood in October 1927, which put 90% of the area of the town under water.

Sadly, Fleetwood was a hostage of the 1960’s and 70’s Cod Wars, over fishing rights between Iceland and the UK. As a result, commercial fishing has seriously declined. In 1982, the last deep sea trawler left the town  and now only inshore fishing boats fish out of the port. Trawlers registered in other places can still be seen taking advantage of the popular fish market were local restauranteurs  source all  of their produce daily at Fleetwood market. Fleetwood still has a smattering of remaining small ‘day boats’ and so the auction hall is still thriving with fish caught from them.

A beautiful and poignant reminder of lives lost and saved is undoubtably the pair of bronze figures, designed and sculptured by Anita Lafford. It stands on the promenade, by the pier, depicting the idea of families welcoming back the fishermen from sea. The statue was provided by Fisherman’s Friend assisted by Wyre Borough Council.

In 1995, the deserted Wyre Dock was developed into a marina, the then derelict dock landing area was developed into the retail shopping centre ,originally called Freeport Fleetwood. In 2018 it became ‘Affinity Lancashire’ personally I would have preferred ‘Wyre Dock’ but then I wasn’t asked!

The town’s most notable employer today is the firm, Lofthouse of Fleetwood, a British family-owned company based in Fleetwood. It was headed by Tony Lofthouse until his death in 2018; he was the fourth generation of the Lofthouse family to head the company. The company’s most famous product is the Fisherman’s Friend lozenge, which is exported around the world.It remains a family business and produces over 5 billion lozenges annually which are available in over 100 countries worldwide. U.K. variants include Original Extra Strong, Original No Added Sugar, Aniseed, Sugar-Free Blackcurrant, Sugar-Free Spearmint, Sugar-Free Honey & Lemon, Sugar-Free Cherry, Sugar-Free Mint and Sugar-Free Lemon.

As frequent travellers across the globe, my husband and I have always found the sight of Fisherman’s Friends lozenges on sale abroad, somewhat comforting. It all started when we noticed shelves and shelves of the brand, in an airport on the west coast of America, who knew that stars flying in to their Hollywood mansions might swan past or stop and buy from a whole array of various flavours of Fisherman’s Friends. Many flavours available that we certainly haven’t come across in the UK.

These days we silently smile and  nod to each other when we see the white packets lined up patiently waiting to be bought. Within our PR business we have clients from across the globe and finding out about their choice, whether it’s the salty version liked by our Stockholm clients, or the original which our Polish friends say are ‘cool’ or as we know our USA contacts, they just love them all! On meeting a client from the far east, he brought me a packet as a gift! For us, this little lozenge has become an almost shared value between us.

On our sojourn we passed the Lofthouse of Fleetwood HQ. I wonder how many visitors across the years have passed in their cars and pointed excitedly at the famous Fisherman’s Friend signage on the building?

From Spring 2020 until 28th November 2020 there is a  temporary exhibition about all things Fisherman’s Friend installed at Fleetwood Museum and we sincerely hope we can visit before then and find out more about the fascinating story of this world famous lozenge. At the time of writing, Covid-19 restrictions were lifted in August and the Museum is once again open.

Fleetwood Museum is an important component of the very fabric of Fleetwood and explores the rich history of this seaside town. The museum occupies Fleetwood’s oldest complete building. It was originally the Custom House, opened in 1838 it’s one of the oldest buildings still in use today. When Fleetwood became a Municipal Borough in 1933 it became the Town Hall. After being threatened with closure by Lancashire County Council, the museum reopened in April 2018 under the stewardship of Fleetwood Museum Trust – an independent charity.  The museum is proud to receive annual funding from the people of Fleetwood through Fleetwood Town Council.  Fleetwood Museum is largely volunteer run by passionate local people and is a true community museum and may it always remain so.

So, back to our beloved little lozenge, loved by many, including my family and reputedly the late Dame Margaret Thatcher also. In 1865, Fleetwood pharmacist James Lofthouse created his own menthol and eucalyptus liquid for local fishermen to take at sea, giving relief in the harsh and freezing conditions of the north Atlantic. Later made in lozenge form, what came to be known as ‘Fisherman’s Friend’ had been born. Originally sold in the local Lofthouse Chemist shop in Fleetwood, Fisherman’s Friend now produces over 5 billion lozenges annually in the Fleetwood factory, sold in over 100 countries around the world. 

The Museum exhibition tells the inspiring story of Fisherman’s Friend. It explores the original idea and creation of the product in 1865, charting the development and growth of this proud Fleetwood business. Ben Whittaker, Museum Manager, Fleetwood Museum, says: “We are really excited to be working with Lofthouse of Fleetwood Limited to create this exhibition.  Fisherman’s Friend is a real success story for the town of Fleetwood which we want to celebrate. 

“They have a fascinating history – James Lofthouse developed the product in response to demand from local fishermen, and their Chairman, Doreen Lofthouse OBE continues to be instrumental in developing Fisherman’s Friend today. Visitors to the exhibition will also be surprised to know how popular Fisherman’s Friend is around the world – with some exotic flavours only available overseas.”

Having read and researched more about Doreen Lofthouse, I believe a Damehood rather than an OBE would have been a more appropriate honour!

I am told that the exhibition features objects charting the history of Fisherman’s Friend and examples of Fisherman’s Friend memorabilia from over the years.  It also reveals, I am told, some fascinating secrets such as the story behind the famous fishing boat logo something I personally cannot wait to know.

The Lofthouse family are supporting the exhibition and Duncan Lofthouse. Managing Director at Lofthouse of Fleetwood Limited, says: “Over 150 years since James Lofthouse produced our first lozenge, Fisherman’s Friend is still a family-owned business. Fleetwood has always been – and always will be – at the heart of our story. That’s why we are delighted to be supporting Fleetwood Museum’s local exhibition that goes back to our roots and highlights historical milestones.”

My husband Bob and I are thankful that we took a wrong turn that day, in June this year, and began to discover more about the bygone and present charms of Fleetwood. Perhaps one good product of Covid-19 is that we cannot fly off around the world but, when possible, we can embrace and enjoy our local, regional, and national history. Who knew that Fleetwood is the only town in the UK with trams running the full length of its main street, sharing road-space with cars!

We have much to be proud of and one of those British icons is the modest Lofthouse Family’s delightful unassuming lozenge, which, takes its world fame with a certain grace that many others could only aspire to.

Fleetwood Museum is keen to hear from anyone who may have a piece of Fisherman’s Friend memorabilia they would be willing to loan or donate for the exhibition, or to share a story or memory related to Fisherman’s Friend that could potentially feature in the display.  To share a story or offer an object contact info@fleetwoodmuseum.co.uk or 01253876621.

Read about Lorraine’s visit to Blenheim Palace a breathtaking UNESCO World Heritage Site in the heart of Oxfordshire

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No one ever told me that Valletta, Malta’s capital, is so cool!

We chose Valletta, voted 2018’s Capital of Culture, for another 48-hour escapade into another culture. Some might assume that, because of Malta’s past links with the UK, the culture would not be too far removed. In World War II, Malta became the most bombed place on Earth when nearly 7,000 bombs fell in a six-week period. The courageous Maltese were awarded the George Cross in 1942, “to bear witness to a heroism and devotion that will long be famous in history”. The people of Malta, who I met, were some of the friendliest and most hospitable it was ever my pleasure to meet, and Malta has an identity all of its own.

Malta’s strategic position has meant that the island has been the location of many wars over its 7,000-year history. Malta is an archipelago situated in the central Mediterranean some 80 kilometres from southern Italy. Only the three largest islands – Malta, Gozo and Comino – are inhabited. Surrounded by the changing hues of the Mediterranean Sea, with 300 days of sunshine at its beck and call, Malta is a delight.
Years ago, I sailed into Malta on a cruise ship and, with my fellow travellers, had ‘done Malta’ in a day. Well, a day certainly gave me the curiosity to return and the desire to give Malta a little bit more respect than just ‘popping in’. Hence our weekend in cosmopolitan Valletta.

The island is small, just 27 kilometres (17 miles) long and 14.5 kilometres (9 miles) wide, and transport links around the island seem good, but we decided to concentrate on Valletta. The city was built by the Knights of the Order of St John, and much of their architecture survives today, as does their art, which can be found in St John’s Co-Cathedral.

A tip here is to allow the cruise traffic to queue beneath the morning and midday sun, then return around 3pm when they are safely back on-board. In our experience, you can just walk up and pay without booking ahead, and there were no queues at that time. It is worth noting, though, that closing time seems to be before 4.30pm or so, so plan your visit time appropriately.

We took advantage of the audio guide, which is included in the price, and we learned about the astounding treasures that overflowed at every turn of the head. The richly engraved tombstones of the aristocratic knights that form the marble floor, each more beautiful and elaborate than the last, portray their coat of arms and, to me, were vaguely reminiscent of tarot cards with their symbols of the predictability of death.

The celebrated artist Caravaggio’s 1608 masterpiece ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’ has pride of place in the Knight’s house of worship, however, the poor artist himself, at first feted and made a Knight by the Grand Master, was later imprisoned for brawling with a fellow Knight and, although he managed to escape, was stripped of his Knighthood.

Talking of the Grand Master, it only seemed right to pay a visit to the 16th century Palace, which was the home of the incumbent Grand Master, head of the Order of Knights, for over 200 years. Sadly for us we were unable to view and admire all the riches within, as restoration work was taking place (note to the Tourist Board – it would perhaps have been nice to reflect this in price), but it was impossible not to gaze and wonder at the tapestries, chandeliers, friezes and the lavishly decorated marble corridors where only the chosen few would have stepped. Should the Palace have had all its public rooms available to view, then I would probably not have visited the Armoury – but that would have been a missed opportunity. There are around 5,000 pieces of armour and weapons, and I marvelled at the sheer upper body strength it must have required to even stand up and walk, never mind defend Valletta, during the Great Siege of Malta in 1565.

After so much history a step into a gentler era was much required and Café Cordina, Valletta’s oldest café, did not disappoint. We felt a little like we were back in Le Train Bleu restaurant in Paris, and it was a pleasure to be seated in the beautifully ornate tea room-come-brasserie, a favourite with locals and tourists alike since 1944. A veritable feast awaited and we snacked on pastizzi, a Maltese pastry made from filo and puff pastry and stuffed with savoury or sweet fillings, and imqaret – deep fried pastries stuffed with dates, citrus and spices – accompanied by a fabulous frothy coffee.

Sugar rush completed, we decided to change a habit of lifetime and take the hop-on-hop-off bus around Valletta. We know that a tour bus is the best way to see the maximum sites of a city in the minimum amount of time, however, we usually prefer to research in advance and target our choices. Valletta, however, with its stunning architecture, has some vertiginous streets – hence our need for the tour bus. The Maltese people are justly proud of Valletta, so I was surprised to hear that many of the thousands of workers in the tourism industry travel in everyday and live away from this UNESCO World Heritage site.

Our hop-on golf buggy-type bus made a stop at the ferry terminal, so we took the opportunity to alight and bought ferry tickets to cross the Marsamxett Bay to Valletta’s neighbour, Sliema. As we crossed the short expanse of water, it felt, to us, like stepping away from the magic of The Knight’s Fortress City into the concrete world of today. There are many hotels, restaurants and shops, with all the usual names we expect… even an M&S! For those seeking a beach holiday, Sliema starts that quest and no doubts leads to fabulous holidays for many. After a pavement café coffee, we hopped back on a ferry and watched eagerly as Valletta and its 16th Century bastion, with its biscuit-coloured limestone walls, came ever nearer, and we emerged once again in the narrow streets of this wonderful city.

Instagramable sunsets feature highly on many a tourist phone, not least from the Upper Barrakka Gardens. But do bear in mind my aforesaid warning of steep streets – the Upper Barrakka Gardens are best reached by taking the panoramic lift! The cost is around 1 euro and can be combined with a ticket for a ferry crossing to or from The Three Cities, which lie across the Grand Harbour. We didn’t have time to visit The Three Cities of Birgu, Senglea and Bormla, but we will do so on our next visit to Malta and report back.

The lush lower gardens stand out because Valletta is not a green city, but it is the view from the upper gardens at sunset that borders on magical. A 15-minute stroll took us to the waterfront, where 19 beautifully restored 18th Century warehouses stand. They were built during the Baroque period and stretch along the water’s edge with a background of historic fortifications. The heritage buildings have been transformed into a variety of lively bars, restaurants and shops, and this is where the cruise liners dock.

After a hearty antipasti of meats and cheeses, which included gbejnet (a herbed cheese made from sheep’s milk), biglla (a broad bean dip), and chutneys, together with breads of all description, we took a taxi back into the centre of Valletta. The evenings in Valletta take on a cool sophistication not seen outside of Paris… I bet that surprised you! It certainly surprised us, as did the array of venues competing for our nightcap.

We could have chosen from any one of a number of establishments, from champagne and wine bars like Trabuxo on Strait Street, to pubs such as ‘The Pub’ on Archbishops Street, the traditional English watering hole world-famous as the place that the late Olivier Reed had his last drink. He was on the island filming Gladiator at the time. On a less sombre note, I loved the opportunity that ‘The Pub’ presented the following day of ‘Husband Day Care’ while the wives go shopping! This would be unsuitable for my Bob as he is not a beer drinker, but I loved the concept.

Back to our night cap. We could have visited the local cinema, which sported a bar, but instead we opted for our by now favourite haunt, St John’s Square, where the brightly-lit columns of St John’s Co-Cathedral dominates, ensuring there is enough light under the stars for the many eateries to provide an array of outside tables. The enticing aroma of delicious local dishes blended harmoniously with the live music of the singer providing us with a variety of romantic ballads. This perfect scene provided a perfect backdrop for a dessert of Qaghaq ta’Ghasel, baked honey rings filled with a rich treacle and spice-based paste, washed down with local white wine.

Before leaving for the airport the following day, we visited St Paul’s Shipwreck Church – well, how could we not after we had seen the A-board outside that reads ‘St Paul’s Shipwreck Church – worth visiting’. For many people, the arrival of St Paul in AD60 is the most celebrated event in Malta’s history. The Baroque church is dedicated to St Paul, Malta’s Patron Saint, and although this is not the place he landed, it is nonetheless here that you have the chance to marvel at the much revered-relic of St Paul’s wrist bone, as well as a section of a pillar on which it is believed that St Paul was beheaded.

After just one or two more pastizzi, we waved our goodbyes to the Il-Funtana tat-Tritoni, the Tritons’ Fountain, the beautiful fountain on the periphery of the City Gates.
We have already booked our flights to return to Valletta next summer, and we will stay in the hotel where, once upon a time, falcons were reared, and where we intend to find out about the real ‘Maltese Falcon’. We are also planning to visit the Three Cities and travel even further afield… as promised, I will report back!

Drinking in the sights at Freixenet House of Cava.

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